From Whanganui, we’ve headed basically due east, first stopping in a basic campground called Vinegar Hill in a picturesque turn of the river. The campground is run by the local council, with toilets, cold showers and water, but little else.
It was a pretty long day at 45 miles and 3100 feet of climbing, and the landscape is now of rolling hills in all directions with some steep long climbs interspersed. One thing about bike touring that you learn is that each downhill is paid for with an uphill, so you may as well enjoy the downhills since you have or will pay for them. We did have steady tailwinds almost all day, so that was a positive!
Chris bought food to make tortillas for dinner, and we had a feast at the campground. I think we were in bed by 9PM and slept in the quiet cool of the night.
The following day, we climbed again most of the day, shorter in miles but with more overall elevation gain. The countryside is empty save sheep in this part of NZ. There are 5 sheep for each person in NZ. We probably saw less than a dozen vehicles all day after leaving Vinegar Hill. We initially planned on staying at Apiti Campground that evening, which is another basic place, but decided to upgrade to Makoura Lodge, an upscale place offering dinner and lovely rooms. The Lodge was an additional 7km from Apiti but well worth it! Made for a shorter ride the following day.
About 10 older riders on e-bikes, the same group we had encountered a couple days earlier, was staying at the lodge and we shared a table for a 3-course dinner and conversation. Good fun and then off to bed!
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