We started our day in Arcos de la Frontera with an amazing breakfast made by our hosts Isabelle and Jim, served on the patio just as the sun lit the town below us. It was a great start to the day!
After breakfast we headed out of town to the west through the narrow streets, seeing the more “normal” side of the town, with wider streets, less steep roads and regular shops. While the climb up to the hotel on one-way streets barely wide enough for one tiny car was grueling the day before, it was kind of cool to be introduced to the old town on medieval, cobbled streets.
We stopped to admire the town as we rolled towards Jerez, noting the steep cliffs falling to the river below.
Today’s ride was pretty easy, and thankfully on small roads. The terrain is gently rolling, and kind of unremarkable if compared to the mountains we’ve just come through. There are some olive groves along the way, and also a few vineyards. The dirt roads we are traveling on are bordered by small dwellings and dusty yards bordered by fences covered with tarps, complete with barking dogs, reminding us more of Mexico than Spain. And the approach to Jerez is not dramatic as it lies in a flat plain. But we’re excited to be coming to Jerez.
Jerez is famous for being the birthplace of two quintessential Spanish things: Sherry and flamenco. And so we find our way out to a tabanco that also has flamenco as soon as we are settled. A tabanco is a traditional sherry bar found in Jerez de la Frontera. Tabancos have been around for centuries, and we read that they are a great place to experience the local culture and to learn more about sherry.
Chris and I had a great time watching flamenco and drinking a variety of sherries at the bar. The place was packed and so we initially watched the flamenco show using a strategically placed large mirror, but then moved into the main room as one performance ended and another started. It’s all very friendly and casual, noisy and appreciative. Definitely something to do when in Jerez.
The old city is also nice to stroll around in, and it has lots of bike paths to get around the city. I went shopping for brake pads and so got to see more of the other parts of the city.
We stayed 2 nights in Jerez, which was nice. Both Chris and I have been fighting off some sort of long lasting upper respiratory crud and a day off the bike with some rest seemed to help. Chris tested negative for covid when it all started and so it seems it’s just a cold.
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